Risotto alla Milanese

Rice was first introduced in Italy, Sicily to be precise as early as the 13th century and from there it spread to the Naples area and later, due to the connections between the Aragona of Naples and the Sforza of Milan, to the Po Valley in northern Italy, where it found the ideal conditions to be grown as the land was flat and there was an abundance of water and the climate was quite humid. Up until today, the Po Valley is one of the largest rice producers in Europe and rice is eaten extensively throughout northern Italy.

In italy rice has evolved into a culinary tradition mainly in the form of risottos, and one of the most famous risotto dishes is no doubt Risotto Alla Milanese. The first recipes mentioning the dish appear in cookbooks starting in the 1800s. From the 13th to the 17th centuries, rice was only cooked in boiling water. The first change took place in 1779, when rice was, for the first time was sautèed in a little butter and wet with broth. Later, a pinch of chopped onion was added as well.

The year 1809 is when the recipe for “riso giallo in padella” first appeared in a cookbook. The rice is sautéeed in butter, beef bone marrow, onion and then moistened with hot broth in which saffron is dissolved.

In 1929, the Milanese chef Felice Luraschi finally gave the dish its name, ‘Risotto Alla Milanese Giallo’ and his recipe calls for rice, fat, beef marrow, saffron, nutmeg and stock, flavoured at the end with grated Parmesan cheeseand has remained the risotto in the style of Milan.

Many people are daunted by the idea of making a risotto, mainly I guess by the fact that you have to give it your full attention. Sure you have to keep stirring and adding stock etc until the right consistency is found and that the rice is cooked, but I actually find it quite relaxing and when the rice is cooked to perfection and is nice and creamy it is a feeling of satisfaction. It’s also nice when your family start telling you how good it tastes. Anyway, as much as I like risotto it is something I never order in a restaurant.

Risotto alla Milanese is my go to and one my kids like and I usually make this as an accompaniment for Osso Bucco (Recipe to follow) and these are also two specialities from the city of Milan.

I would call this the basis for any other type of risotto as this risotto is a basic risotto except for the addition of saffron, which gives it that hint earthiness and slight iodine flavour, but be careful not to over use the saffron.

Serves 4

Ingredients:
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  1 medium onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  1 tsp saffron threads
  3 1/2 cups chicken stock, hot
  2 cups arborio rice
  1/2 cup white wine
  4 tbsp (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
  1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano, plus more for sprinkling

In a pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat then add the onion and cook for about 8 to 10 minutes until softened and translucent but not browned.

Add the saffron to the stock, stirring to infuse.

Once the onions are translucent add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon for about 3 to 4 minutes until toasted and opaque, then add the wine to the rice and add a ladle full of the saffron-infused stock and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed.

Continue adding the stock a ladle at a time, waiting until the liquid is absorbed before adding more.

Cook until the rice is tender and creamy and yet still a little al dente, which should take about 15 minutes then stir in the butter and cheese until well mixed.

Portion risotto into 4 warmed serving plates, serving with extra grated cheese on top.

Enjoy!